Archive for the ‘Tutorial’ Category

Gift Wrapping

Thursday, August 4th, 2016

It has been forever. That second child . . hey! Woahhhhh. I have the attention span of a gold fish and little energy.

I have put on a ban of buying anymore craft supplies of any kind. Having said that, all the time and money I had already spent, I have amassed a great inventory of products to utilise when the need arises.

This was one such need. I did however have to buy a box at a two dollar shop. In the recent past I have let standards slip and used, please forgive me, gift bags! Not nice ones at that. The super tacky ones.

I wish to show you what I achieved for a family member’s milestone. I shouldn’t be making excuses, but I know a lot of my readers also find themselves in the same shoes, young kids, too many commitments, lack of time, indecisive, like nice things, procrastinators yadda yadda. It was my Aunty’s 50th and DID NOT HAVE A CLUE WHAT TO GET HER and I left internet shopping too late, not that I could decide on anything. She also hinted at not wanting actual ‘things’.

Which I think a lot of us feel like this too. How much stuff can we actually have? We all seem to be attempting to declutter in one way or another.

So what do you get someone who has everything?

I always feel that flowers can never go astray. People moan that they die. Yes, they die. You enjoy them for the days you have them. The lift the mood and create energy. Then hey presto you pop them in the green bin! Not hanging around haunting you forever. They are perfect.


If they drink alcohol, a bottle of something is good too, possibly even something they enjoy often, you know it will get drunk and not sit around collecting dust waiting for some elusive special occasion. Life is short! Drink the good stuff, drink the regular stuff.

I recently enjoyed a west coast cooler. It was fun! You know it is not precious to not be consumed. It can just be a bit of fun! Let’s not take everything so seriously. Or you can splash out on something grand, just make sure you just agree to open it and SOON!


I decided to create a gift with whimsy. Fifty and whimsical.


Let’s see what I put together. I bought a white gift box. Raided my ribbon stash for a classic wide black satin ribbon. Handmade washi paper from Japan and a torn watercolour paper tag.


 I printed out little circle discs to also adorn the balloons but, alas, the sun was setting and I needed to get in the car and GO. So I had to ditch it.


I filled the bottom of the box with her favourite chocolate. I suggest finding out something they enjoy and grabbing them.

I covered them over with tissue paper.


A cinema did a recent renovation where the whole cinema is like a giant gold class and the recipient likes to frequent this place so I bought a voucher. I know it will be utilised and it is a fun outing. But I didn’t just hand over a voucher shoved in a hallmark card. I dressed it up a lil’. I wrapped it up like a little present with ribbon.


Next up was another voucher. (I know, I am so lazy!) It would have been MUCH nicer if I actually went and got an actual voucher from that shop but it is quite a drive for me from my place and I have young children and to go all that way for a voucher seems a bit disproportionate. If I was getting something AMAZING, I would definitely make the trek. A voucher though, ughhhh no. Plus the voucher probably is ugly.

I decided to make my own voucher. This is also a great idea if vouchers don’t exist with what you want to give.

I whipped this card up in no time flat. Cut two slices in the paper and thread the cash through. Luckily we have plastic money as I folded it on the back and sticky taped it down.


Then I made a teeny tiny little hand written card. I popped it in an equally teeny tiny little handmade envelope with hand made paper. So sweet!


A popped a little hemp cord black bow on the front. The top left is the framing voucher card wrapped up. These three things were wrapped in tissue paper and the chocolates were placed into the gift box.

With just one more chocolate on top to greet you when you first open it for a little bit of whimsy.


The gift box was then wrapped.

The card I made, the round discs and that hand torn label were all made of watercolour paper off cuts that I have kept for times like these. Waste not, want not!

The whole gift made for an enjoyable unwrapping experience. That, in my opinion, adds to the gift.

Maybe consider trying some of this next time you get attack of the guilts just giving vouchers as a gift.



There was a fifth balloon but I popped it with florist wire! I wanted this little arrangement to be really cool. I was thinking of adding tiny bows to the wire ‘strings’. To add the text discs on more wire. Possibly tulle covering, foliage etc. . . . but even just the 4 balloons were too heavy for the wire and even several strands of wire. I threaded them into a straw too. I tried quite a few things. This is something I wish to conquer on another occasion. Possibly Isabel’s first birthday.

Hope to be back to blogging. I miss it. I miss documenting things that have happened in my life or my dreams and aspirations. I miss other peoples blogs. Lots of migration to instagram and snapchat. I am on snapchat and share some tutorials of things I am making. Film in real time. Warts and all. #swearing!! Frustrations etc which appeal to some people. The smoke and mirrors removed.

Although I really miss the gloss. The polish. THE EFFORT!!!!

Please share any last minute gift ideas that you think are a hit.

Much appreciated.



Queen Bed Head D.I.Y Upholstery Tutorial

Monday, May 18th, 2015

After close to 10 months, I am here to FINALLY do my bed head tutorial.


To start with I sketched the shape of the bed head on some paper. Full disclosure, I was heavily inspired by a Hickory chair company Fifth Ave bed.



I decided to do a piped edge instead of nail head, like in the picture. I love nail head, but at the time, the interiors world was saturated with nail heads and I didn’t want the bed head to be too trend based and look sad shortly after. But I definitely LOVE nail head. I also have a chair in the room that has nail head trim.

I chose to make mine taller and not do the border. The border is waaaaayyy out of my amateur upholstery skills.

Then I handed over my drawing with measurements to my husband. My bed head is about 170cm tall and about 5 cm wider on each side of a queen mattress.

He then drew it out in his CAD software and sent it to the factory to be cut out.


The 3 beams were 45mm thick from bunnings. The plywood backing is 9mm thick and the fancy shape top are 9 mm thick ply stacked up on top of each other. All glued and screwed together.

This step is obviously not an option for everyone. So you can get out rulers, protractors and pair of compasses to draw the fancy curve shape. It is definitely not impossible and how things use to be done back in the olden days!

Then use a jigsaw to cut it out.

Luckily my brother works at a factory and he ran the project on a CNC machine. He also constructed it for me.

Then my husband also sent his file for the inner part of the bed head for the foam shape to a foam shop who accepts .dxf files and they cut it out so the fit was perfection.


Again, this is also not necessary. You can cut foam to shape like you cut plywood with a jigsaw. You just use an electric bread knife for the foam. This doesn’t even need to be exact. It is going to be inside the bed head, not visible and it is a squishy product.


Once you have the wooden frame constructed and the foam inside. The next thing to do is to cover the rest of it.

Lay it horizontally on a couple of work horses which can be picked up fairly cheaply at Bunnings.


I covered it with a foam mattress topper from Target. I got this for half price when a target was closing down.

The packet says “Foam underlay” and the price is $39 (I paid $19.50) for a queen bed size. But I can’t see it on their website. (They have similar stuff, but it is memory foam, mine is not memory foam) Moving on. You can use a thin foam all over. 2 or so centimetres thick.

You don’t have to use foam here though (as it is expensive!) You can use high loft batting here which can be purchased from spotlight. But use 2 layers.

I went with the thin foam. Lay it on top


The pointy side down. Then with a staple gun (I STRONGLY recommend investing in an electric staple gun, due to the amount of stapling you will be doing. Unless you’re fond of hand cramps or have amazing palm strength then you can use a $20 manual one)

Staple around the perimetre of the bed head minus the legs. Use your fingers to push the foam to find the edge of the timber.


Then trim the excess foam off with good scissors.


Next, lay your fabric over the top. Make sure it is ironed and free from wrinkles. I laid my fabric on its side. So the selvedge (self finish edge) of the fabric is at the top and bottom, not the sides of the head board. As the fabric width was not wide enough to accommodate my bed head. So if you are using patterned fabric, keep this in mind. If pattern is not directional, i.e works in any direction it is then that is fine, but if it needs to go a certain direction and is not wide enough the way it is, you will have to sew pieces together and you will have a seam or seams. So make sure you measure and line it up so that it is centred to the bed head.


You can see the selvedge edge at the top there and just resting on the bed head leg. Then begin to staple! I started at the bottom of the bed head. I just put a few staples in. Then I went to the top of the bed head and pulled the fabric smooth and firmly taut. Not overly taut though, just smooth the fabric up and over the edge and pulling slightly, put a staple in a few places to anchor it. Then move to the sides and place some there. Once you have the fabric stapled on all 4 sides, make sure it is smooth, free of ripples or loose fabric. If it is nice and tight, move in. if you’ve got issues, use needle nose pliers and pull some staples out and try again. Then go around the fill in the gaps with staples.


Obviously, this complies with all the known OH&S regulations.


Close up


You may need to cut the fabric to ease it around the pointy parts. Then trim the excess fabric off.

We next move on to covering the legs. For this part. Cut fabric that is big enough to cover the leg the whole way around.

For this part you will need cardboard backtacking strips. These are sold per metre strips. $0.45 per metre.


I bought them from here


Cut the strips to length. BUT DO NOT USE DRESS MAKING SHEARS HERE. Under no circumstances use your scissors for paper/cardboard.

Place your cut fabric so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing up. My picture is too cropped. But you place your piece of fabric on the body of your head board. So the edge of the fabric is lined up with the trimmed edge of the body fabric. Not sitting on the bed head leg. Then place your strip and put a few staples in it. You use the strips to get a nice straight edge. Then you pick up your cut piece of fabric and it folds over the backtack strip and conceals it and you can then drape it over the leg. Staple it in place on the of the leg. There is not foam or batting used on the legs, it is not necessary in my opinion.

Next we move to the sewing machine. (I was scared of this part, but trust me, YOU CAN DO IT!) You are going to make the piping/cording.


I bought my cording from Spotlight. You can get a vast range of thickness for your cording. I chose something quite thick. I wanted it to be prominent. I can’t remember the size number though. Sorry. This is cotton cording. If you are going to do piped edge on something that you will wash, I have been advised to stay away from the type of cording I chose. As it takes FOREVER to dry. In that case you can use soft hollow core plastic.


Measure the perimetre of your project for the amount of cording to buy.

Change the foot on your machine to the zipper foot.


Cut long strips of fabric that is wide enough to wrap around your cording and have over hang. This youtube video shows you how to do it.


I am certain that I didn’t cut my strips on the bias though. I just cut straight strips and it worked fine. In the youtube video it shows you how to sew the strips together so you have one big long continuance piece of fabric.


Wrap the strips of fabric around the cording and line the cut edges up. Make sure your cording is in there snugly and sew with your zipper foot as close to the cording as possible. You don’t want it loose in the channel. I had to move the needle on my machine over to get closer. Once you have it right, it is super easy. Just sew the entire length in one straight stitch. EASY!!!

Then you have piping!!!

Find the middle of the long strip of cording. Place that at the top middle of the headboard. Secure it. Then follow it along the edge of your bed head to the bottom of the leg to make sure you have made enough. Do this on both sides. You don’t want one leg to have a puddle of piping left over and then not enough of the other leg when you get to it. You can’t just cut it off and add it to the other side without a bad obvious join.

Then start to staple the piping in place. You want the piping to rest just on the front edge. You are stapling into the over hang of the fabric.



Continue all the way down.

Cut more strips of fabric. This is to cover the top and side edges of your head board. You may have to sew 2 or more together. I have 1 seam. Be smart about it. place the seam/s somewhere inconspicuous. You don’t want them to be too visible. So lining them up with other joins is best.


Next up. You will need your cardboard backtacking strips.


We are going to be covering up all the staples and raw edges of fabric from the piping to make a nice finish.

Lay your fabric the wrong side up, just like we did with the legs and place your cardboard strip butted up with the piping/cording.


Place staples into the cardboard.

Next up, cut strips of high loft batting. I purchased this at spotlight. Cut strips slightly bigger then the depth of your head board. You need this so you don’t feel/see the staples,the cardboard strips or excess fabric under the finished fabric edge. To give it a nice smooth finish.


Fold back the fabric you just attached. Place the strip of the batting there. Lift a layer of the batting and place the staples inside it. You don’t want to feel these staples or see the bumps when you attach it.


As you can see in the picture above, I am placing the staples in the middle of the batting. Just separating it with my fingers.


Go the whole way around.

Then fold your fabric back over and staple it on the very back of the head board. VOILA! A piped edge that is concealed and the top edge looks beautiful.



Trim excess hanging fabric.


Stand it up and be all like, f**k, I am a f**king GENIUS! Bask in the glory of being an amazing d.i.y QUEEN!!

Lay something over your work horses to protect the front of your bed head. Lay your bed head face down to close up the back of the leg fabric that you can see hanging in the above picture.

I used this metal back tack strip to close the leg fabric over so there are no visible staples.


And to close up the back up, I purchased shark trim to do it neatly, so that there is no visible staples.


I attempted to use it and became frustrated and then I came to my senses – “It is the back Laura, no one will ever see it. Just staple it!”


I purchased an off cut of fabric from the upholstery store that was enough to cover the back for like $4. It doesn’t matter what it looks like.

AND THEN IT IS FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Then insist on nagging your husband the minute he walks in the door from work to help you bring it inside the house and place it behind your ensemble mattress. The weight of the mattress and base has been enough to keep it in place for us. I did not attach it to the wall at all. It is simply just leaning.

You can make bed heads minus the legs and then hang them on the wall, but I have no idea why you would do that. You can see it is missing legs and it looks kind of silly and then you have to go to the trouble of hanging it on the wall with brackets and hardware, I would just make your head board with legs.


Then snap a picture because you are proud as punch!

Materials and Cost:

Timber beams: Around $30 from bunnings.

Plywood: Free.

Frame cutting: Freebie.

Foam: $50 for 50mm medium density foam.

Foam Cutting: $120 for cutting. That is pretty expensive and I did “umm & ahh” over doing this. I could have cut it myself and it would have cost $0 but I wanted to make a professional looking head board and that meant it was guaranteed to be the right and perfect shape and I didn’t have to mess around trying to cut it myself, so I personally thought it was worth spending money on. But It is definitely doable. Make a template and trace in on the foam with black texta.  Then cut it out with an electric bread knife.

Thin foam: $19.50

Fabric: $200 (I think it was around $50 a metre and I used around 4 metres) Remember, you need upholstery fabric, you can’t/should go to just spotlight or lincraft and buy any ol’ thing.

Staples: ~$10

Cording: ~$20 (I can’t remember, but something like this)

It was around $450 to make it. You can buy bed heads for this price. . . maybe, but it won’t be anywhere near as nice. The fabric will be sad, there won’t be piping and the foam will be thin and hard. My husband questioned me making this one when the price was mounting and slightly begged me to have someone else make it. I was shocked. I trusted my ability, especially after doing the diamond tufted banquette and the professional upholsterer who made the cushion cover for me praised it to no end. Once I completed it, My husband was really pleased with the result and did admit he had made a mistake in not having faith in me. To have someone make this bed head up for you in your own custom shape, you are probably looking at $1200 at least. I think I did well.

Time: This bed head took me around 2.5 days to upholster. I was the primary carer of my 1 year old whilst doing it too. I did it on my own. (besided the construction of the frame)I got my husband to help me put it on the work horses before he left for work. But when it came to flipping the bed head over onto its front. I did that on my own and I could have really used another set of hands, but I am too determined. And I have plastic work horses and a couple collapsed as I was exercising poor judgment and restraint, but I managed to get it on and get it done because it was so close to being finished.

If any Aus peeps want to give making a custom shaped bed head a go and need some assistance getting the bed head frame made, you can speak to me, even if your aren’t in Sydney.


NeoReverie Diamond Tufting Tutorial Banquette.

Friday, April 18th, 2014



Welcome everybody. There is a wealth of information and guidance available for this process, but I still thought I would do my own version.

I’ve graduated, master upholsterer, from the University of YouTube based on all the videos I watched and information I absorbed.


Medium density foam: cut to the shape you require. This stuff is expensive. There are more savvy ways to acquire foam, like foam mattress or other end products made of foam from big box stores like IKEA or target and cutting it down with an electric bread knife. I have a history of getting stroppy with a D.I.Y that doesn’t go to plan. So my personal philosophy is to start off on the right foot with the right products. Just pay the money and get exactly what you need. I bought the foam at the Foam Booth in Surry Hills. You can also get Foam at Clark Rubber and I am sure there are others. I needed 2480mm x 380mm and this cost me $80

MDF/ply wood/peg board: I used 3mm mdf which I believe was too flimsy. Hence why I braced it which you will see later.

Batting: I bought it on a roll from Spotlight. I needed 3 metres

Fabric: Thickish in weight and upholstery grade. You will need more fabric then you think. I cut 3.2 metres for my 2.5 metre long banquette. Because my projects had really long rows of buttons, it just ate the fabric up

This YouTube video shows how to measure your project to determine the right amount of fabric you need. I didn’t bother doing it, because I was talked out of it by this blog post.


As she casually mentions that it doesn’t take up much more fabric. To be fair, I had a lot more buttons on a row then she did and I should have realised. It left me to sew on more fabric on either side. I had the half tufted banquette on the floor and the sewing machine on the floor while my husband pressed the pedal and intermittently moved the 2.5 metre long piece through the sewing machine.

I bought my fabric on clearance from Bargain Upholstery in Seaforth. I wanted a light blue grey fabric that was a linen look-a-like and not a fabric that they needed to order in (So I could get started right away and If I needed more that it wouldn’t be a drama) I also wanted it to be easy to clean and have stain reducing properties. Like my couch. I am not a fabric expert or anything But it has 2 colours in the fabric. So one direction has the first colour of treads woven and in the other direction it is the second colour of threads woven. It helps to mask stains. (Well, in my experience) In a perfect world I would have loved glazed linen. I am into that so hard right now. But this fabric has man made properties and it gives the fabric a nice sheen, so I was happy with that.

And I will be scotch guarding the crap out of it on completion too. You have worked too hard to have it ruined by a wayward glass of red with a girlfriend or a naughty rugrat.


 So because I had the diamond tufting bit half done and it was just leaning there and the bare base seat cushion foam there and I haven’t got around to finishing the project because I needed another set of hands and free time with my other set of hands (husband) doesn’t come around often and when it does, he sure isn’t helping me with this project. It was sitting there for some time. Unfinished. I was trying this new thing. Not leaving anything on my island bench. So I picked up my paint palette from doing calligraphy with highly pigmented MAGENTA gouache paint. And I went to place it on the foam base cushion and right before my very eyes the paint just LEPT! LEPT I tell you out of the palette and make a big splash on the diamond tufted part and then dribbled down. MY LIFE FLASHED BEFORE MY VERY EYES. Why God? Why me? I’m a good person. I tried. I’ve sincerely tried. What have I done to deserve this? F***ing panic town. Population ME!

ANYWAY. Blah Blah Blah. I got the stain out the best I could after 1 hour of frantic scrubbing and it is only just visible. . . to me. I can live with it. I died, but I have been revived. Then after my daughters party there was another stain. But I got that out too (on the base cushion). So yes. I need to scotch guard it.

Upholstery Twine: This is a nylon twine that is quite thick. I looked for it at Spotlight and they only had upholstery weight thread for your sewing machine, for when sewing covers. This will not be strong enough. I bought my roll from here. LINK I am sure there are cheaper places to get it. But this was what I came across and was easily accessible to me.

Upholstery Needle: I bought a packet of Doll needles by Birch from Spotlight. In Hindsight I should have bought a proper upholstery needle from an upholstery supply shop as the eye of this needle was still a bit too narrow for the twine to pass through. I soldiered on and managed though.

Self-cover buttons: The consensus is that you can make them yourself, but it will be the most monotonous and annoying part of the project. I didn’t want to lose momentum or enthusiasm, before I even got to the tufting part. One blog post mentioned that she outsourced them. So I did too. I couldn’t even find the self-cover button packs at Spotlight. They sold 2 self-cover buttons in a pack for $6 and that seemed very expensive. So I took my fabric to this place and got Number 36 buttons made up for me.

They did it in a few hours.


Staple gun: I own a staple gun and just as I was gearing up to start, I asked my husband where it was. He has been pottering in the garage recently and he said that he has never came across it. So I had no idea where it was and part of the garage had blocked access. I wasn’t going to go and look through boxes. So I scooped up my kid to go and buy another one. You could put a regular staple gun for $20 to $50. But this job requires doing a lot of stapling and will be taxing on your hand muscles.

We have the RYOBI One power tools with the interchangeable batteries and I was looking at that brand to buy an electric one, but they currently don’t cater for it (And besides, I am not too keen on all this cordless get up. I would hate to run out of battery when I am full of steam, how annoying to have to stop prematurely)

So they had a cheapy OZITO branded electric stapler that is corded. SOLD.


(Bosch had one too that was $99 but it was cordless and the battery would have needed charging before I could start and I wasn’t waiting for that)

Batons, liquid nails & screws: For bracing and forming around the bottom architrave of my window. Not necessary if what you are attching to is flat.

Scissors: Dressmaking shears. For snipping the batting and trimming the fabric.


Mark out where your tufts will be on your mdf. I had 2 rows of 14 buttons and 1 centre row of 13 buttons. They were 17 cms apart horizontally and 8.5 cms apart vertically.


Drill through the mdf where you marked for the holes.

Brace your mdf with your batons, by gluing and screwing them. Making sure not to place them over any holes. (You don’t need to do this if  you use thicker wood. The stuff I used was pretty flimsy, plus I need to brace it and pack it out to go around the bottom window architrave that I didn’t want to remove.)


Put your mdf on top of your foam and with a marker push it though the holes to mark the foam. Remove.


With a knife, cut out channels in your foam for the button to go down deep when you tuft. I used a serrated steak knife. Stuck my fingers through and yanked out the foam.


Place the mdf on the bottom. Then the foam. Drape over your batting over the foam and mark where the holes in the foam are and with scissors. Snip the batting in a x shape to make a hole.


Drape your fabric over the batting.


Now you are ready to tuft.

This is what I did, which If/When I have my time again, I would do some things differently, which I will mention throughout this. Start with your centre button and work out from there. Doing the one above, the one below the one to the left, the one to the right and out you go. From the front, use your thumb to push the fabric into the hole. Pass the needle through the foam until it pokes out the back of the mdf. I had trouble doing this, as it was hard to keep the needle straight and was going in blind and found it difficult to find the hole. What I ended up doing was from the back, I passed the non-sharp end of the needle from the back through the eye and up through the foam and the fabric. My fabric wasn’t a tight weave. So if your fabric is, I don’t think you would have had much luck with it.

Thread the needle with the twin and then pass it through the back of the button and tie and double knot. I used my teeth to make sure it was nice and tight. Then I pulled the needle back through to the back. Only when it was all completed did I realise I had done this step a bit funny as I was pulling the knot through the fabric. Again, if my fabric was tighter I would have had buckleys chance of doing this. It also at some points caused my fabric to snag. But I smoothed it out with my hands from the centre and it wasn’t visible. And some times because I was pulling on the knot, the knot would come undone, causing the button to pop off and for me to start the process again.


What I should have done was. Thread the twine through the back of the button and tie a double knot onto the button. And then with the 2 tails of the twine, thread the needle. This would have been very difficult for me as I had trouble just threading the needle with one length of twine, let alone two.

Then from the back, you have the knotted twine poking through. From the front side, fold the fabric, by rubbing/rolling it in between your thumb and forefinger to make nice pleats in the fabric. Then from the back, you pull with all your might to make a nice diamond tuft. You staple the twine in a zig-zag like pattern. Give it about 4 to 5 staples.


And that is one button done. Move on to your next button


Once all the buttons are done.


Staple the excess fabric right around. Trim it off and if you wish. You can cover the back with inexpensive fabric for a professional look.

I didn’t do this, as I would like to still be able to access it if I ever need to repair it.

Last step. Outsource the base piped box cushion to an upholsterer. I can bring myself to diamond tuft, but not sew a cushion cover. Let it go and call it a day.



The only thing that needed improvement was the depth of each button is inconsistent. But as a first timer, I am happy with it and I will do better with my next diamond tufting jaunt if I so chose to take one upon me.

I wish I had centred the banquette with the window above it. The reason I didn’t do this is in case we wanted to put a heater to the right (their is a gas outlet) or a tall narrow cabinet in between the 2 windows. But I think it would have looked really flash and we could have made a feature of the window (that still needs repairs and painting) with a nice roman blind and trim tape and flanked it with Oly San Fransico candle sconces. Always in hindsight. . . .

Another thought I had was finding a really nice demi lune table to go in between those 2 windows and placing a nice piece of art above it. But I always suffer from cramming so much furniture into a room.

before_afterWho doesn’t love a before and after?




Next thing. I think I am gearing up to do a headboard. But probably not diamond tufted. I just can’t settle on a shape.

D.I.Y Floral Topper.

Friday, July 26th, 2013









I had a lot of fun making this. It is also very easy.

If I asked for a cake topper from a generic florist I would have most likely received some crappy roses with babies breath.

I think you can agree that this result is more impressive.

The flowers & floral foam are from the markets. The floral wire is from Lincraft.

NeoReverie Bib Tutorial

Monday, June 10th, 2013


  • Cotton fabric (I’ve used a fat quarter which is 50 x 52 cms of fabric and is perfect for this project, you can buy them in Spotlight and craft shops. My fabric came from Milton. I purchased it on my baby-moon earlier this year)
  • Terry Toweling. I’ve used a cloth nappy and was able to get 2 bibs out of 1
  • Velcro
  • Dressmaking shears – or sharp scissors
  • Pins
  • Thread and sewing machine
  • A4 paper and printer

Download my free pattern. Please be respectful, this is only for home use.
Print out the pattern and attach the pieces together with tape.


Iron fabric and toweling. Lay them on top of each other and pin the pattern pieces to it.



Cut out on the ‘cut’ line.

Pin the 2 separate fabric pieces together. Make sure the patterned fabric is pinned the opposite direction to the terry toweling. With the patterned fabric, make sure the right side of the fabric are facing each other. With the toweling, it doesn’t matter as both sides are the same.


Sew a quarter inch seam on both pieces of fabric.


Iron the seam open.

Lay the fabric and toweling on top of each other. The toweling on the bottom with WRONG side facing UP. Lay the patterened fabric the right way facing up.


Place the soft velcro on the patterned fabric. (My velcro was self adhesive, so I didn’t have to pin, but if yours isn’t, then pin in place) You can also use just one strip of velcro instead of two.

Place the rough velcro on top of the soft velcro


Remove adhesive backing and press the toweling down in the right place


Pull the velcro apart, be careful not to un-attach them from their positions.


Sew around all velcro pieces with the sewing machine. (Even if you used adhesive velcro. We want longevity and needs to withstand multiple washes)

Place the 2 fabric pieces together with the right sides facing inwards.


Then pin.

Sew a quarter inch seam all around except for a gap at the top.


Snip the excess fabric away in the corners and cut little snips – be careful not to cut into the sew line. This helps the corners turn out nicely.


Then pull it inside out. Give it a really good press with the iron. Be sure to have pulled all the fabric out on the corners. When ironing the gap, iron the open seam so that the un-sewn fabric is folded inwards.

Then top stitch the whole way around with a scant quarter inch seam. This will close the gap at the top.


Your bib is now complete! Bravo.

Just remember if at any stage of your sewing things aren’t perfect, don’t get too hung up, soldier on. Remember, this bib is just to be spewed on!


I made 2 more, plus I still have the initial white one I made prior.

I even hand embroided one.

Clearly I have too much time on my hands.

I would estimate that the bib would be perfect from newborn to 6 months.

I would like to try it on other babies, at different ages, just don’t have access to any currently.

If you make it and the neck hole is too small, let me know and I can provide new pattern.

Also if you make it. Please let me know, I would love to hear your feedback! Maybe even a picture!

DIY – Oversized Gift Tags

Sunday, June 2nd, 2013


  • Decorative paper
  • Card stock
  • JAC paper
  • Blade/Ruler – Scissors
  • Hole punch
  • Ribbon
  • Printer

First off I duplexed my tags. This involves using the JAC paper (which can be bought from good art stores. It is like double sided contact paper) You place this in between your decorative paper (I used marbled paper) and card stock (I used peach coloured canson card)

This step is not necessary if you don’t want double sided cards and used a heavy weight card stock. I made my double sided so that later I could write what was in the boxes if necessary. At the moment they are pre-emptive, awaiting baby toys.

Download the file you wish to use. One with numbers, one without. Print on card stock. Cut out. Hole punch. Tie ribbon (I used dove grey velvet ribbon)

Tie it to anything you wish. In this case, I tied it to IKEA baskets. I added a pink stripe washi tape around the top edge.

basket_3 basket_1basket_4

Download the pdf files here: